Did a split as a test print.
Thanks Halfbrite. Done and done. Need to make my self a floppy power splitter, but actually that one you picked out will make it easier, as the power plug is on the side, so it stays inside the case.
Let us know how satisfied with it after printing.
It's about $40 (shipped) for the single-piece one on craft cloud, with white ABS. Shapeways quotes $61 for white "versatile plastic".
It's about $40 (shipped) for the single-piece one on craft cloud, with white ABS. Shapeways quotes $61 for white "versatile plastic".
The file named as such has splits in them, you'll just need to pull them apart. It's the little jagged line between the right and left audio. If you need, I can break it into separate files, although I thought 3D printer software would be able to do this.
Thanks, this is cura, the slicer I use:nonarkitten wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 10:07 pmThe file named as such has splits in them, you'll just need to pull them apart. It's the little jagged line between the right and left audio. If you need, I can break it into separate files, although I thought 3D printer software would be able to do this.
I am not a genius like you, so not good at any modeling software, I just took the standalone model, imported it in tinckercard and cut it there into pieces. I assume it has something to do with the way the STL is read other attributes are not read nor needed, and they have to be split already, like you did with the 3 plates shown above.
Even the split file has to be pre-processed unless I am doing something wrong, as all 3 pieces are considered 1 object in cura. Typically on thingiverse I see 1 stl file for each object/part when they are uploaded.
Well it always depends on the printer, PLA in this case and the setup of the printer. 3D Printing at home is still an art
and I am trying a few different ways to print to get the best results.As for the models I won't criticize, only give feedback if asked since I appreciate that this was done at all! Thanks @nonarkitten!
Yep, its a long print, I am doing one face down and sideways(pretty crazy yes, you may get some build lines but larger smooth sides if your printer is good). I will probably re-print the face down print upside down, in order to get a smoother finish on the pretty side, it just means more work as I have to then remove supports and you get cross hatching on the back side. Bit you can se how smooth the backside came out, the pretty side wont be this smooth due to my glass bed adhesion.
As for time, you can see I am 12 hours in
Oh as for white, I would look for a more brown cream color like I am using here, hard to see even with the camera shot, but the floppy gotek bracket I am holding is white (Or the white 3d printer in the background), you can see this is different a custom color I got.
I would look into doing PLA with carbon fiber, or even another material, like ABS if you are going to pay someone to print it. Over time PLA can become brittle, it also absorbs moisture. There are other materials I am not familiar with.
Quoted from the interwebs: PLA and ABS are both thermoplastics. PLA is stronger and stiffer than ABS, but poor heat-resistance properties means PLA is mostly a hobbyist material. ABS is weaker and less rigid, but also tougher and lighter, making it a better plastic for prototyping applications.
Ok, all done!
1st 2 show the fitment of a PCI bracket, spot on!
2nd 2 show before and after supports removed.
So here are my thoughts, I would not print sideways, layering is pretty bad, but if you are good at tweaking your pinter, can over come that. However the text came out great! If you have a lot of patience, vertical would look great if you are willing to sand.
As I suspected, the face down doesn't look so hot because of my bed and would need a lot of picking and cleaning to get the lettering out.
I will do a test fit in my A1000 to see how it fits, then think about adding some thickness if possible to the print, as well as adding supports only where needed. If the top faces up, raised letters and icons could be added, would look super cool!
The best quality will probably be printing face up then, just means trouble with the PCI bracket as there will be a lot of supports on that side. The other option would be to have the PCI bracket mounted on the outside of the case.
1st 2 show the fitment of a PCI bracket, spot on!
2nd 2 show before and after supports removed.
So here are my thoughts, I would not print sideways, layering is pretty bad, but if you are good at tweaking your pinter, can over come that. However the text came out great! If you have a lot of patience, vertical would look great if you are willing to sand.
As I suspected, the face down doesn't look so hot because of my bed and would need a lot of picking and cleaning to get the lettering out.
I will do a test fit in my A1000 to see how it fits, then think about adding some thickness if possible to the print, as well as adding supports only where needed. If the top faces up, raised letters and icons could be added, would look super cool!
The best quality will probably be printing face up then, just means trouble with the PCI bracket as there will be a lot of supports on that side. The other option would be to have the PCI bracket mounted on the outside of the case.
Any one interested in me doing face up prints?
Great job, although it looks like the other side MIGHT have got a little cut-off. I'm so happy that the PCI slot fits -- I'm guessing that fuzzy bit is some support from the slicer? Also, the text looks really good for a 3D print! Wow.
Here are the parts pre-split with a join that keeps them more rigid and aligned.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y6W64k ... sp=sharing