Hah, was just about to say something about the left side being flat and not curved, I am going to go back and look. Not sure which fuzzy bits (Ones to the right? If so yes the supports that I cracked off, again I am too lazy to do a proper clean!), as a test print I expected a few hmmsnonarkitten wrote: ↑Thu Aug 06, 2020 2:35 pmGreat job, although it looks like the other side MIGHT have got a little cut-off. I'm so happy that the PCI slot fits -- I'm guessing that fuzzy bit is some support from the slicer? Also, the text looks really good for a 3D print! Wow.
Here are the parts pre-split with a join that keeps them more rigid and aligned.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y6W64k ... sp=sharing
I would say this one looks better than the face-down print.
There's not much room for extra thickness and still be compatible with the actual Amiga 1000 case. Is there any spot in particular you need beefed up?
This can be done; although the PCI would need a LOT of support added.
Yeah, I tried to do this and it just looks terrible. It might make more sense to make the PCI bracket a separate part and flatten down the backside. Make the text embossed out and add some icons...
I think I follow. So the face down layer usually looks the worst and we want to build up the model like a "tower" that avoids significant overhangs with the "best side" facing straight up?halfbrite wrote: ↑Thu Aug 06, 2020 3:11 pmJust doing some other prints so my printer is tied up for another 6 hours now. But anything you want to throw at me I can help you print and develop.
For the thickness, it is more about having an object to just print with some overhangs, rather than have to have all the supports generated then snap, clean, sand off, etc.
Better printers can have some over hang without support, as you saw with the vertical print, all the slats, holes, etc had no supports, they were printed like magic in thin air
No way I can do a 150mm overhang though!
So hard to illustrate, but in this photo you could make a more solid mass behind the plate and over the existing connectors, with of course hollowed out spaces for all the existing/new added port holes. The places to put solid blocking are poorly represented with the ripped off supports from the last print.
This would then mean you could print outside up, with either minimal or no supports.