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maurensen

Posted Tue Dec 22, 2020 5:11 am

Hi all,
as stated in my presentation thread luckily I scored a nice Amiga 1000 at 5 miles from my home at a decent price and I've not been able to not to buy it ;-)
It's a first PAL revision (the one with the daughterboard), it's in a very nice shape but I have some minor issues.
First of all I've replaced the drive that wasn't working with one from a dead Amiga 500 that fits and read/write perfectly but I was not able to find the way to make the activity floppy led of the miggy to work. How can I get the signal of activity from the drive to pair with the 1000 floppy led header ?
Then the keyboard have 4/5 keys not responding. I'd like not to mess too much with this old piece of tech so in your opinion what is the safest way to try to repair this beauty without risk to damage it?
Thanx in advance for your suggestions and a Merry Xmas to all from Italy!

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nadoom

Posted Tue Dec 22, 2020 6:43 am

Hey,

I have seen a video on youtube of a guy soldering on a 2 pin header onto a A500 floppy drive, it can definitely be done.

The 4 or 5 keys may be a corroded membrane tracks I haven't opened up my A1000 keyboard for ages so not sure about what it is like inside but I have had this issue with a500 membranes.

You are able to restore the tracks using silver paste and a little scraping, you need a multimeter and a decent microscope though otherwise you will make a mess.


Hope that helps

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maurensen

Posted Fri Dec 25, 2020 11:13 pm

Thanks I'm searching youtube but not finding this video.... So noone ever replaced a drive in a1000? I cannot find any reference in Google....

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nadoom

Posted Sun Dec 27, 2020 7:58 am

check this out , it should help!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMAnftk912Y

13 minute mark.

Cheers

User avatar
nadoom

Posted Sun Dec 27, 2020 8:04 am

Just looking at my post regarding the keyboard.. heres a bit more detail..

You need to use a microscope as the traces are incredible faint and you cant see what is what with the naked eye.

Find where there trace might be broken. once you do , from what I recall, I cleared the area using a tiny scraper (like a dentist tool or micro pliers) , then I tinned the copper with solder, then I used silver paste to bridge the connection. you need to wait until its dry before it becomes conductive.

I would use low temp solder and try not to heat it up much, the traces are so fine on a A500 KB might be thicker on the A1000. or totally different, im too scared to open it lol

User avatar
maurensen

Posted Sun Dec 27, 2020 10:04 am

nadoom wrote:
Sun Dec 27, 2020 7:58 am
check this out , it should help!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMAnftk912Y

13 minute mark.

Cheers
Thank you very much this trick did the job!

User avatar
rjd324

Posted Thu Dec 31, 2020 6:48 am

From my own experience, the only thing I needed to do for nonresponding keys was to pull out the switch, open it and bend the metal contact further. You can then perform a continuity check. Maybe you want to do the check first to prove that it is not the switch to begin with. The 1000 membrane seems to be a nice design to me and I would think it was the switch more than an issue with the membrane.

This is only my experience with a single a1000 though.





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