User avatar
intric8
Seattle, WA, USA

Posted Thu Jun 15, 2023 10:40 am

A while back on my favorite BBS, Particles, I asked some of the "elders" there what their favorite GEOS printer setups had been back in the day. I have a Commodore MPS 1250 printer as well as a gigantic Panasonic KX-P1180 printer, and both are really nice printers. But I was looking for a higher-quality print for GEOS specifically with minimal fuss. For text both of these printers are great, but with graphics you sometimes get jaggedness. I realize laser printers are the absolute best way to go but didn't want to go down that rabbit hole. Plus, my heart was locked in on dot matrix printers and still is. They are noisy as F but dang it I love the grind. I also really enjoy just watching pages build one line at a time. I'm a dork!

Anyway, one of the members on Particles whose experiences I really admire who goes by the moniker Paradroyd chimed in. I remember taking a photo of my CRT's screen to save his response. He said back in the day he had gone "all in" on GEOS right before the Amiga was released and had gone on a mission in the mid-80s to also find the best printer he could. According to him, there had been a Star printer that was never sold in stores and could only be purchased via mail-order that was hands down the best dot-matrix printer he'd ever paired with GEOS.

It was the Star NL-10.

Some of you may be thinking, "Oh come on, man, that was massively popular. It was everywhere." Actually, you're very likely thinking of the Star NX-10, which was indeed extremely popular and commonly found in shops across the country.

The NL-10, however, is virtually a thing of pure mythology. To be only available via mail-order meant only the hardest of the hard-core would ever even try to buy one (with very little reason to do so even back then). And good luck trying to research that printer. It’s virtually a technological ghost. :ghost:

But, I saved a search on Ebay and eventually almost forgot about it. Over a year went by when one day I received a notification that an NL-10 had emerged from the lair of The Nothing. It looked exactly like the NX-10 except for the sticker on the front - this was it.

Interestingly, the seller had enabled the “Make Offer” option, so I offered half what he was asking for and… he accepted!

Then came the nervousness of wondering if, like so many others, this seller put it in a box with a strip of tissue paper padding or not. I fully expected the printer to arrive cracked and in pieces. But to my surprise she came safe and sound!
IMG_2747.jpg
The only external visual difference between the NX and NL printers seems to be the case badge.

IMG_2748.jpg
I was especially excited to receive the original manuals as well.

Back in August of 1986 a man named David Durran wrote a GEOS printer driver for the Star NL-10 (which has the Commodore serial bus interface) and it is still available for download to this day.

Naturally, I hooked everything up and it worked perfectly. I’ve still got a bit of learning to do but I printed in draft and high-quality modes with no issues. High-quality basically made everything look more… bold.

This is where I stopped, however. The print ribbon was so faded I could barely see the text on the page. I found a replacement online and snatched it up, but it wasn’t much better. After all these years, even “new” ribbons inside sealed plastic bags dry out.

I decided to re-ink the ribbon myself. I purchased a 2 ounce bottle of black stamp ink and last night got to work.

For over an hour while wearing latex gloves, I applied small drops to the ribbon and worked the ink into the material with my fingers. Then I’d mind-numbingly and thumb wrenchingly twist the little knob on the cartridge to forward the ribbon another 5-6 inches and repeat the process sometimes wiping away excess ink. I did all of this on top of a paper bag to catch any splatter (it happened).

By the time my thumb was totally raw from twisting the little knob to forward the "endless" ribbon, I finally returned to the starting point where I'd begun the process. I reassembled everything and ran a test print.


The ink is definitely looking nice and black now. The problem is smearing/ghosting in some areas. I think I may actually have slightly too much ink in the ribbon now. The smudging seems to happen where the small rollers that hold the paper up come in contact with the paper.

I remember reading at some stage that some people used WD-40 to revitalize old ribbons. That idea, however, didn't appeal to me because I didn't want my office smelling like WD-40 (just being honest). Plus, I never fully understood the reason for doing so. I had visions of small oil spots smearing on paper or around letterforms - that didn't appeal to me.

Someone also informed me that WD-40 on the rubber print rollers will turn them to goo. =(

I feel like I’m so close to having my new favorite GEOS battle station setup being complete (which I can’t wait to show you all soon). Assuming the ink I used is OK, does anyone have any tips on how to improve my process or remove the ghosting I’m seeing on the pages?

User avatar
intric8
Seattle, WA, USA

Posted Thu Jun 15, 2023 1:23 pm

What she looks like IRL
IMG_2750.jpg
And yes, she's heavy as hell.


I need to give her a good solid bath, but am not going to waste my time on that unless/until I get the ribbon puzzle solved first.

User avatar
McTrinsic

Posted Thu Jun 15, 2023 2:54 pm

Wonderful.
This post reminds me of the magic of printing back then. Heck, of the future in general that back then we thought would be good because so much technology leaps were made … that had to be a good thing, right??

I’m still hoping someone makes a virtual dot matrix printer with, let’s say, an RPi. You could then wonder how these noises were somewhat cool back then.

Almost like the listening to data tapes back then 😆

At least, printers didn’t suck back then. They threw the dots at the ribbon and on the paper without any remorse. Didn’t matter if there was ink or even the ribbon.

And today? After 10 minutes the printer will cry „I can’t reach the server of my manufacturer to tell them that sounding switch me off nicely!! Buy more original ink/toner!! And the yellow ink is empty I’ll stop printing black!“

So let’s appreciate the simple life we had back then…

User avatar
Zippy Zapp
CA, USA

Posted Fri Jun 16, 2023 8:37 am

Nice! I was not aware of this printer. What makes it different from the NX-10? It seems it uses the same ribbons?

I always bought Star printers back then. I still have an NX-1000C Rainbow and a regular NX-1000C (non-color). I also have a Star NX-2420 Rainbow which was purchased for my Amiga back then. (For Star most printers that end in 'C' signifies Commodore interface.

Most of my friends that used GEOS to do newsletters and such, back then, usually used a 24-pin printer with a SuperGrafx interface or something like that. This gave you the best non-laser output you could get at the time.

As for ribbons i would look for a company that still sells newer produced ribbons. There is a company that used to produce all the ribbons for my Stars, up until a couple years ago, including the color ribbons. Around The Office, IIRC. I have had pretty good luck with those ribbons and still have a few. I also have a few originals that still work great.

That said, I have not had good success re-inking ribbons. I think, like you, I used too much ink and made it very dark and very splotchy and messy. Less ink is better. It doesn't take a lot to cover the ribbon. A drop or two rubbed in with an applicator like this one from amazon.

I too would never go the WD-40 route for the same reasons. It is part solvent after all.

Please keep us updated on your progress and how it works with GEOS.

User avatar
intric8
Seattle, WA, USA

Posted Fri Jun 16, 2023 9:01 am

Thanks for the suggestions - I really appreciate it.

Incredibly, the NL 10 is still listed on the website you mentioned, Around the Office.

Unfortunately, it lists the ribbons as out-of-stock.

However, there is one that - to my eyes - looks identical even though it is for a printer I've never heard of or seen. It's only $20.

That same ribbon (and in fact I think even the same photo) can be found on Amazon for a much more expensive $35. According to Amazon that dates back to 2009, which is kind of interesting.

I'm very tempted to take a gamble on the $20 lookalike ribbon and see if it fits...

If the cartridge doesn't fit, I very likely could pillage the ribbon from one and move it to the other.

User avatar
intric8
Seattle, WA, USA

Posted Fri Jun 16, 2023 9:17 am

ZippyZapp you asked what the difference was between the NX and NL.

I found a review by Antic magazine from 1987 that explains a little bit of it for us.



ANTIC VOL. 5, NO. 9 / JANUARY 1987


FEATURE REVIEW
REVIEWED BY GREGG PEARLMAN
STAR NL-10 Printer
Affordable dot-matrix powerhouse

The NL-10 from Star Micronics is a 9-pin dot-matrix printer that features outstanding near letter-quality, producing even smoother characters than its popular predecessor, the Star SG-l0.

The sleek, standard-size NL-10 also delivers conveniently versatile operation, with panel buttons replacing DIP switches for hardware control of some often-used settings such as pica, elite, condensed, boldface and NLQ. Naturally, these styles can also be controlled from within a program or a printer configuration file instead of directly from the panel buttons. Tractor and friction feed settings are built-in, and your paper loads in effortlessly from the back.

The NL-10 works with a variety of computers via separate $60 interface cartridges. For an Atari (8-bit or ST), you need the standard parallel interface. Installation is easy and requires less than five minutes-just plug it in. Owners of Atari 8-bit computers will also need an Atari 850 interface or ICD's P:R: Connection.

Star calls their NL-10 compatible with the Epson FX-80. (Star's other current SG-10 descendant, the NX-l0, is claimed compatible with the Epson FX-85.) We found our NL-10 to be smoothly Epson-compatible with all the software we tried, except for a few mysterious minor glitches with Batteries Included's PaperClip word processor.

The NL-10 proved itself to be an impressive graphics printer, as demonstrated in the accompanying picture of Tutankhamen. On the ST, no detail was lost in our high-resolution version of Tom Hudson's Bee. Graphics on the NL-l0 can be printed at normal density, double density (at normal or double speed), or quadruple density.

Draft mode print quality is good and the printout is fast. In fact in a quick test, this review was copied from disk to the printer with Atari DOS 2.5 and printed out at roughly 75 characters per second. At this speed, the NL-l0 would print a 10-page document of 250 words per page, averaging 5 characters per word, in just over 2 1/2 minutes.

Unlike Star's earlier Gemini l0X and SG-10, the NL-10 uses pop-in ribbon cartridges instead of inexpensive and easily-obtained two-reel ribbons. When we checked our usual ribbon suppliers, we found that the most accessible replacement was Star's own cartridge for the NX-l0 and NL-10, priced at around $10.95.

The default print setting is pica, which Star measures as 80 characters per line (cpl). Elite (96 cpl) and condensed (136 cpl) can be set by pressing the mode button on top of the printer. As with most dot-matrix printers, near letter-quality is limited to 80 characters per line. The NL-l0 will print subscripts and superscripts while in NLQ mode, but it doesn't actually print them in NLQ.

Emphasized and boldface print characters are both double-struck, but in emphasized print, the second strike is slightly to the right of the first, while in boldface it's slightly above. The difference is subtle, but certainly visible. Emphasized boldface printing, in which each character is struck four times, really stands out.

Proportional spacing, expanded (double-wide) print, and even "quad" print (double-wide, double-high) can be be controlled from within a program or via the printer driver file of a word processor. Also available is a master print mode command, which lets you set any combination of print pitch, boldface or expanded print and underlining.

The two-volume documentation for the NL-10 is thorough. A 32-page users manual covers the basics such as set-up and elementary maintenance. The main 180-page volume tells how to make the printer do whatever you want it to do. There's detailed information about BASIC and ASCII codes, CHR$ functions, control and escape codes. Other chapters explain the different typefaces and print pitches, line spacing, page control, margins and tabs. The Special Features section describes how to obtain double-sized or "quad" characters, macros and defining your own characters.

Eight appendices take up nearly half of the volume. Topics covered are DIP switch settings (the DIP switches can be accessed easily on the back of the printer), ASCII codes and conversions, character fonts for standard and international characters, function codes, technical specifications, the parallel interface itself and connecting with various computers.

The NL-10 is not horribly loud, but it is louder than our other Star models. This is not a printer to use while someone is trying to sleep in the same room. However, at least the printer sounds fast.

The Star NL-10 is a fine printer and a bargain at $379 including the interface cartridge. Its near letter-quality mode leaves many other 9-pin printers in the dust and its documentation tells you everything you need to know.

Star Micronics, Inc.
200 Park Avenue
New York, NY 10166
(212) 986-6770
$319, requires $60 interface
CIRCLE 264 ON READER SERVICE CARD

User avatar
Zippy Zapp
CA, USA

Posted Fri Jun 16, 2023 10:43 am

intric8 wrote:
Fri Jun 16, 2023 9:01 am
Incredibly, the NL 10 is still listed on the website you mentioned, Around the Office.

Unfortunately, it lists the ribbons as out-of-stock.

However, there is one that - to my eyes - looks identical even though it is for a printer I've never heard of or seen. It's only $20.

That same ribbon (and in fact I think even the same photo) can be found on Amazon for a much more expensive $35. According to Amazon that dates back to 2009, which is kind of interesting.
Yeah that is the same outfit as Around the Office. They also go by EBS. I have bought some of my ribbons via Amazon from them before i knew. They are not cheap for sure.
I'm very tempted to take a gamble on the $20 lookalike ribbon and see if it fits...

If the cartridge doesn't fit, I very likely could pillage the ribbon from one and move it to the other.
I would probably do the same. I took a gamble recently with a NX-1040 Rainbow ribbon that was new. It looked identical and Star usually has the same ribbon for any given series. IE NX-1000, 1010, 1020, etc. But in this case although it looked identical from the top and was in every way except for one, where the sprocket is for the 1040 is in a slightly different spot then the rest of the 1000 series. LOL. So i got a ribbon that wouldn't fit. I suppose I could transplant it but I don't know how easy or hard that would be.

User avatar
McTrinsic

Posted Fri Jun 16, 2023 5:25 pm

You might want to check retrohax.net. He, too, recently took care of a ribbon printer and the ribbon.

User avatar
intric8
Seattle, WA, USA

Posted Fri Jun 16, 2023 6:10 pm

Here are the results of my latest fix. I would now give my prints a B+ in total print quality, where previously they were more like a D and bordering on an F.

There is now almost no obvious smudging without very careful inspection in one area. And the only reason I'm giving this now a B+ and not a solid A is because the level of black changes in and out in mild waves.

What I did

Tonight I took some micro-fiber rags and, while holding one end of the ribbon, with my other hand I pinched and pulled down the exposed length 3 separate times before forwarding the ribbon to the next section. I did this the entire length of the ribbon. It took about 45 minutes this time. (Podcasts are a great way to stay sane during these exercises.)
IMG_2776.jpg
Overly wet, untreated ribbon. Note the yellow micro-fiber cloth (these are fantastic for all kinds of jobs).

IMG_2777.jpg
Treated ribbon after the process described above.

It's important to note that something many of these old ribbons seem to suffer from is decades-old waves in the ribbon from being folded up in their cartridges for so long. I can't eliminate these wrinkles, and I do think it has a very mild "impact" on some of the print quality, like characters with darker areas, etc. due to the folds in the material.
IMG_2778.JPG
I suppose if I were a complete lunatic I'd take some wax paper and iron the stuff before I'd ever added ink. But I'm quite sane, thank you.

In any case, the only issue I now see is some rows are obviously darker than others. But at the end of the day I'll totally take this compared to:
  • Almost invisible dried up ink, where I started
  • Overly saturated ink with horrible smudging, where I was before
  • WD-40 people, who (I now know) actually melt the rubber rollers in their printers attempting to get perfect prints (no thanks!)
It's a B+, but I can totally live with it. I hope the ribbon I ordered either fits or can be reused in my current cartridge. If not? This'll do, pig. This'll do.


User avatar
Zippy Zapp
CA, USA

Posted Fri Jun 16, 2023 8:25 pm

Right on! That is good progress. Maybe it will even out over time.





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